Designers Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna, Tarun Tahiliani, and Anamika Khanna presented their collections at Day 6 of ICW 2021
Team Just Urbane
Day 6 of FDCI’s virtual India Couture Week 2021 was fit for a contemporary wedding as silhouettes and drapes took centre stage.
Couturier Tarun Tahiliani showcased his presentation called Artisanal Couture which included a stunning set of six capsule collections—each showcasing his brand’s signature ‘India Modern’ design aesthetic. Each of these smaller capsule collections – Chikankari, Pichwai, Rangrez, Cocktail Goddess, Pakeezagi and Bridal – made up the larger ICW show.
The couture collection is a celebration of colour leading from the Rangrez capsule, where thousands of meters of woven brocade strips are cut out and applied on different forms. The bridal collection is presented in a sublime palette of colours ranging from traditional bridal reds to contemporary TT pastels and beiges that have been the mainstay of many of the brand’s recent collections. The label’s Pichwai collection this season takes inspiration from the ancient Indian lyrical paintings from Rajasthan that depict big monochromatic scenes of the Raasleela and our traditional motifs from peacocks to cows to lotuses. Finally, the collection’s Chikankari capsule is reminiscent of the tomb of I'timād-ud-Daulah in Agra, whose latticed carvings and inlay work form the basis of the collection’s Chikankari motifs
Celebration Of Intricate Crafts
Fashion designer Anamika Khanna paid homage to the most intricate crafts of India through her couture collection. Blush pinks, mint greens, pristine whites and violets set the tone for the collection with sequin and pearl embellishments. A celebration of a grand scale, the line rejoiced in everything beautiful. For Anamika, this collection was all about rejoicing in beauty. It was an acceptance of what is and a celebration of what we are given. The magnificent set was created with red meadows on trampolines and models were seen jumping ecstatically clad in Khanna's lehengas and saris.
In menswear, there were strikingly beautiful kurtas and stoles with kala dori work. Male models were styled with chokers and neck pieces to render a modern vibe to the traditional look.
Profusion Of Opulence
Designer duo Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna couture collection was a profusion of opulence with embellished rich fabrics like velvet, duchesse satin, and chiffon in a harmonious palette of wine, grey and sapphire. Their dresses looked like they were immersed in gleaming crystals and the tuxedos, sharp and detailed with modern embroideries made with heritage techniques. From halter-neck gowns, cocktail dresses to tuxedo jackets—it featured a myriad of techniques like metallic thread embroidery, layering with organza, embedded colour crystals, and more.
Their inspiration, this season, was from the luminescent, whimsically irregular, and rigorously aspirational masterworks from their past. The key to their collection was the cutwork. Layer after layer of tiny delicate sheer fabric pieces were hand-embroidered on the outfit to form a lattice that veiled yet revealed the female form underneath. Then there were actual overlays of capes and layers of sheer tulle covered with the most delicate organza frays. Everything shook or shimmied.